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1st Time Build - Neck Questions

 
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chbenny



Joined: 11 Feb 2017
Posts: 2
Location: Tennessee

PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:55 pm    Post subject: 1st Time Build - Neck Questions Reply with quote

It is fairly humid here right now and it doesn't look like it will clear up for a few more days. While I wait, I thought I would ask a few questions regarding 2 guitar necks.

Maple Neck with a skunk stripe and a Rosewood fingerboard.

I want an "aged / amber" look on the entire neck.
What are the best ways to prep this neck?

What are the pros and cons for both tinted (stain) lacquer as well as dye / stain diluted and applied straight to the neck?

I see a number of people suggest I seal the skunk stripe before I do much to the neck.
Is CA glue my best choice?

I do have a waterslide.
When should I apply it? Before or after staining?
What are the best steps to take to make the edges "disappear"?


Solid Maple neck.

I want an "aged / amber" look on the entire neck.
I'll see above for prep answers.

People who go with stain - direct to the wood, when they want to change it, do they typically just buy or make another neck? I understand that I can sand it back but is this why some choose lacquer over direct dye/stain - so they don't really have to sand back past the first layer of finish?

I'll see above for skunk stripe answers.

Same question as above regarding the waterslide.
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marksound



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 16672
Location: OKUSA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have to pre-seal the skunk stripe.

This article from Refinishing 101 explains the process in simple terms: http://www.reranch.com/fenderneck.htm

Quote:
If the finger board is not maple tape the board to protect it. I have found it best to tape just the face of the fretboard. Tape over the bevel line of the frets but not beyond leaving the sides along with the position markers clear to be sprayed.

If the fretboard is maple you can color and clear it in conjunction with the rest of the neck. You can tape the frets before coloring but I have found that it is much easier to spray the frets with the color and clear coats and clean any build up off the frets after the lacquer is dry. Lacquer does not like unprimed metal and as it dries seems to shrink away and off the frets. Any remaining lacquer can be scrapped off (usually with your fingernail). Fender developed a "special tool" for removing the lacquer. They used a nail with the fret profile notched into the side of the nail head to scrape the frets. The last prep steps are to wipe with the neck a tack cloth and position it for spraying.

With the neck in position (most people prefer hanging the neck) the neck is now ready to be sealed. Spray two coats of clear lacquer from The Guitar ReRanch clear aerosol spray can (two nozzles are included with the clear; a round pattern red and an adjustable fan cream nozzle. For necks the red nozzle with its narrower spray width seems the better suited). Let the first coat dry about thirty minutes before spraying the second. Let the sealer coats dry at least a few hours or better yet, overnight. The sealer coats will prevent the color coat from going into the wood. By first sealing the wood the color coats may be wiped off with thinner if the application is too dark or uneven. Without adequate drying of the sealer coats the shader color will be wiped into the wood and possibly require a restrip, resand and reprep.

Before coloring the neck make a few practice passes on a piece of scrap wood similar to the neck wood. The depth of the color is controlled by the number of spray passes made and the spraying distance (usually about 18 to 24 inches). Once you have a feel for the proper spraying distance and coloring as it relates to the number of passes you can spray the color.

Two nozzles are provided with the Neck Amber Aerosol. The cream color nozzle is a fan and has a tip that can be rotated for either a horizontal or vertical spray pattern. The red tip is narrower round pattern. I prefer the red tip for spraying necks. Use the fan tip for spraying a body. Spray the first few coats from a distance of about 18 to 24 inches. These coats and all following coats should be sprayed lightly. Spraying too lightly may not be possible. Spraying too heavily may cause streaking and (although hard to do) runs.

When the color depth appears correct shoot a coat of clear to reveal the true color (aniline dyes may not reveal their true character until clear coated). If the color is too light shoot one or two more coats of color until it appears correct. (Sandwiching the color between clear coats will cause no problems in that the subsequent clear coats will melt the lower coats of clear and color together). Typically, from three to eight passes will be needed for a medium amber sixties look. More for a fifties look.

With the color acceptable the clear coating can be completed. Three to six coats of clear nitrocellulose lacquer can be applied following the guidelines in ReRanch 101. Let the neck dry (five days is optimum) and polish again as noted in ReRanch.

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chbenny



Joined: 11 Feb 2017
Posts: 2
Location: Tennessee

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have now read and re-read everything you have pointed me to - and more. Thank you! I do still have a couple of questions.

If I use the reranch approach and put 2 clear coats onto my newly sanded neck, then...

I don't have any reranch Neck Amber Aerosol - can I not use my spray equipment and dilute my transtint dye in an alcohol and spray that?

Regardless, will these tinted coats not come of easily since the stain is not penetrating the wood?
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marksound



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 16672
Location: OKUSA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chbenny wrote:
I have now read and re-read everything you have pointed me to - and more. Thank you! I do still have a couple of questions.

If I use the reranch approach and put 2 clear coats onto my newly sanded neck, then...

I don't have any reranch Neck Amber Aerosol - can I not use my spray equipment and dilute my transtint dye in an alcohol and spray that?

Regardless, will these tinted coats not come of easily since the stain is not penetrating the wood?

Absolutely you can mix your own dye.

The tint will be sandwiched between coats of clear. Sure, the clear will wear off eventually just like any other vintage finish. But even if the wood itself was stained, the clear would still wear off and you'd get pretty much the same effect.

Vintage Fenders had little or no tint in the clear or on the wood. What you see is the yellowing of the original lacquer and/or staining of the wood from decades of play.

You can proceed any way you want, but now you have more information than you did before. "Feed your head," as the saying goes. Cool
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