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Headstock painting question(s)

 
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jazzant85



Joined: 16 Dec 2016
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 11:26 am    Post subject: Headstock painting question(s) Reply with quote

Hey all, so I'm newer at this but have experience using paints and what not but could use some advice. So I'm looking to get the headstock on my Mighty Mite neck (rosewood board) to match the body (CAR). I might either take the tuners from the original neck or buy new tuners but that's my first dilemma.

1. When should I drill the holes? Before or after I paint? I'm guessing before but the screw holes are pretty small so I could see them getting plugged with paint and clear. I've heard some say do it after painting and just use a really sharp bit, go in reverse at first at then drill. But I really don't wanna run the risk of messing it up.

2. What are the general steps from start to finish? As in- mask edges, apply gold/silver base coat, then CAR coat, clear coat, apply decal, more clear coat. What I'm really curious about, is at what points do I sand/buff/polish?

3. Lastly, I'm teetering with the idea of doing the back of the neck a more vintage looking amber. But I can't get a clear answer on how opaque the neck amber tint is. Reason I'm wondering is because the Mighty Mite neck i have has a skunk stripe that I don't wanna get covered. But if the amber is just more of "clear tint" then I'll do it. And if I do do it, Should I do that BEFORE or AFTER I start work on the headstock. I'm guessing before..?

Ok I think that's it. Thanks in advance for the help guys!
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Headstock painting question(s) Reply with quote

jazzant85 wrote:
Hey all, so I'm newer at this but have experience using paints and what not but could use some advice. So I'm looking to get the headstock on my Mighty Mite neck (rosewood board) to match the body (CAR). I might either take the tuners from the original neck or buy new tuners but that's my first dilemma.

1. When should I drill the holes? Before or after I paint? I'm guessing before but the screw holes are pretty small so I could see them getting plugged with paint and clear. I've heard some say do it after painting and just use a really sharp bit, go in reverse at first at then drill. But I really don't wanna run the risk of messing it up.

2. What are the general steps from start to finish? As in- mask edges, apply gold/silver base coat, then CAR coat, clear coat, apply decal, more clear coat. What I'm really curious about, is at what points do I sand/buff/polish?

3. Lastly, I'm teetering with the idea of doing the back of the neck a more vintage looking amber. But I can't get a clear answer on how opaque the neck amber tint is. Reason I'm wondering is because the Mighty Mite neck i have has a skunk stripe that I don't wanna get covered. But if the amber is just more of "clear tint" then I'll do it. And if I do do it, Should I do that BEFORE or AFTER I start work on the headstock. I'm guessing before..?

Ok I think that's it. Thanks in advance for the help guys!


I drill the small tuner holes after painting. Then I use a small countersink from a dremel tool (by hand) and bevel the edge of the hole.

If you want to tint the back of neck-- I do that first. The neck amber can get dark pretty quick, so when you think you need to go just a little darker-- don't. Stop there and lock it in with a coat of clear.

Alternatively, you could spray clear into a Preval and then some tinted clear into that. Mix it light, 3 parts clear to 1 part tinted clear-- and that'll give you a lot of control over the tint.

Once the clear on the back of the neck has dried-- say a week or so-- mask off the neck and the edges and back of the head stock. Use the 3M fine line tape on the front edge of the head stock. You can hit that with a little clear to stop any bleed under the tape just to be safe. Then paint the head stock and carefully remove the tape from the front edge. Spray a coat of clear over the CAR-- start lightly with the clear to prevent any bleed and put your decal on when that's dry. Then mask only the fret board and spray the rest of the clear over the entire neck.

Don't sand anything until all the clear is on. It you get dust or a contaminant in the paint, very gently remove it with some 600 grit.
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jaybones



Joined: 22 Mar 2014
Posts: 429

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I did my headstock (after stripping the poorly done black lacquer) I used Frog Tape, and taped the edges of the headstock, leaving the adhesive side sticking up as a barrier. The adhesive in Frog Tape turns into a gel when wet so it doesn't bleed.

After the paint had started to dry (tacky) I pulled the tape off and had a nice clean straight line all the way around.
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jazzant85



Joined: 16 Dec 2016
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2016 5:29 am    Post subject: Re: Headstock painting question(s) Reply with quote

rickrob wrote:
jazzant85 wrote:
Hey all, so I'm newer at this but have experience using paints and what not but could use some advice. So I'm looking to get the headstock on my Mighty Mite neck (rosewood board) to match the body (CAR). I might either take the tuners from the original neck or buy new tuners but that's my first dilemma.

1. When should I drill the holes? Before or after I paint? I'm guessing before but the screw holes are pretty small so I could see them getting plugged with paint and clear. I've heard some say do it after painting and just use a really sharp bit, go in reverse at first at then drill. But I really don't wanna run the risk of messing it up.

2. What are the general steps from start to finish? As in- mask edges, apply gold/silver base coat, then CAR coat, clear coat, apply decal, more clear coat. What I'm really curious about, is at what points do I sand/buff/polish?

3. Lastly, I'm teetering with the idea of doing the back of the neck a more vintage looking amber. But I can't get a clear answer on how opaque the neck amber tint is. Reason I'm wondering is because the Mighty Mite neck i have has a skunk stripe that I don't wanna get covered. But if the amber is just more of "clear tint" then I'll do it. And if I do do it, Should I do that BEFORE or AFTER I start work on the headstock. I'm guessing before..?

Ok I think that's it. Thanks in advance for the help guys!


I drill the small tuner holes after painting. Then I use a small countersink from a dremel tool (by hand) and bevel the edge of the hole.

If you want to tint the back of neck-- I do that first. The neck amber can get dark pretty quick, so when you think you need to go just a little darker-- don't. Stop there and lock it in with a coat of clear.

Alternatively, you could spray clear into a Preval and then some tinted clear into that. Mix it light, 3 parts clear to 1 part tinted clear-- and that'll give you a lot of control over the tint.

Once the clear on the back of the neck has dried-- say a week or so-- mask off the neck and the edges and back of the head stock. Use the 3M fine line tape on the front edge of the head stock. You can hit that with a little clear to stop any bleed under the tape just to be safe. Then paint the head stock and carefully remove the tape from the front edge. Spray a coat of clear over the CAR-- start lightly with the clear to prevent any bleed and put your decal on when that's dry. Then mask only the fret board and spray the rest of the clear over the entire neck.

Don't sand anything until all the clear is on. It you get dust or a contaminant in the paint, very gently remove it with some 600 grit.



Thanks for all that info Rick! I think I'll be set to go now.
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ladyfinisher



Joined: 21 Feb 2013
Posts: 401
Location: California

PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2016 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get good tape. I use the tape for automotive painting. It will hold up to the nitro and doesn't leave any residue behind.

Ladyfinisher
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