The Guitar Refinishing and Restoration Forum

[SGjmill]

Alright well here is what I get when I dry fit everything together as close as I can.

It seems as if everything isnt fitting tight but I havent put any clamps or anything on it to see what that does yet.

Also I cannot get the gap in the binding to come any closer than it is in the pics.

[Vince]

Did you try the tapping method? You got her pretty damn close!
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[SGjmill]

Ive tried tapping lightly with my finger (dont have a rubber mallet). I guess I could try lightly with the grip end of a hammer.

Ive also reied to carefully and forcefully slide it together but it feels as if some fibers are not aligining and creating the gap.

[twangster]

I've used urethane glue with great success where it's close like that. It's great for filling small voids, and strong.

[SGjmill]

[twangster]

For the whole fix. Home depot has a few good brands.You need to dampen both surfaces slightly as per directions.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/316F374Q0FL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

[SGjmill]

[twangster]

Just edited as you replied ! Once it's all dry i use quikwood to fill gaps.

[SGjmill]

[Thumposaurus]

It looks like the binding has come a little loose on that side where it isn't closing?
Get the main crack glued up and then maybe you can pop the binding a little looser and wick some super glue behind it and tape it back in place tight.

[twangster]

If you use urethane , be aware that it foams as it dries, but any excess scrapes off fine. It's also very sticky once you get it on your hands etc.

[Louie7]

My experience is that no two 'dry fits' are the same...

Don't expect the final fit -with glue applied- to go together exactly the same as the dry fit.

Of course, it's possible that the final fit could be even tighter than the first dry fit. But broken and loose fibers can 'go' one way, then another.

Just the seemingly harmless application of glue can 'aim' the fibers slightly in different directions, resulting in a different line up.

Unfortunately, once the fibers absorb moisture and glue, the chances of starting over if the fit no longer works like the original dry fit did, are pretty thin.

Once you commit... you're committed.

What do I do ? Well, I thin the Titebond glue a bit, with water, and then spray it on. This keeps the delicate and fragile fibers from being jostled and moved by a glue brush. Then I just do my best and HOPE for the best.
Sometimes you can only do what you can do.

[SGjmill]

Alright so today I used original Titebond to glue up the headstock.

How long do I need to let this stay clamped up before I can remove everything? Ive read other posts saying anywhere for 1 day to 1 week.

And once I take the clamps and everything off what is the best way to fix the Epiphone headstock overlay that was cracked and missing some pieces?

Ive thought about using some sort of bond-o like substance to fill in and level the area followed by sanding flat and painting black then clearcoating.

Any other ideas/suggestions?

[twangster]

Glad you got it close enough to feel confident with Titebond original , it's the best route . Did you get any slippage ?

24 hrs is safe, I usually leave it a few days extra before stringing up.

To smooth the neck / break area I use quikwood from Homedepot, a lot of others here do as well. My approach is sand back slightly around the join area , fill with quikwood, level with a blade & sand flat when dry. I've also used it on binding etc & touched up with a small brush.

The challenge will be an " area " touch up on the neck's poly finish. I would scuff sand the neck , do the white area touch up & re clear the whole neck. If you mask at the neck join it'll work. ( Don't do anything until you've strung it and seen how it's holding.)

I've used Stewmacs black CA glue to fill the overlay crack in repairs like this.

Maybe post a few pics.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Stewart-MacDonald_Super_Glues/Opaque_Super_Glue.html

[SGjmill]