The Guitar Refinishing and Restoration Forum

[SGjmill]

Carrying this thread over from the other section...how do I go about starting this?

Previous thread: http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=37704

Ive never attempted this before and I have the following questions?

1) What tools do I need to fix? Please be specific as possibe and really dumb it down for me

2) Do I have to refinish/repaint the whole guitar? Or is it possible just to repaint the neck?

3) The binding from the neck on to the headstock is pretty f'd from what I can tell. Is it repairable? Or do I need to learn how to do that also?

4) Does anyone make Epi veneers? Or should I go for the Gibson ones and make it something it isnt.

Thanks guys!

[Brothertucker]

I'm no expert on any of the questions but take a look at these threads on the subject matter.....

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-corner/3226-headstrock-repair.html

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-corner/81265-r6-headstock-repair-pics-3.html

http://www.bcrmusic.com/repair_pages/Hamer%20early%20Standard%20headstock%20repair.htm

Any questions on these I'd PM Roman Rist or BCRGreg on the mylespaul.com forum....sorry to the reranch loyalists for the different forum.

Both threads are on the extreme ends of repair, and may not be needed on your guitar. Yours looks like a pretty clean break, with everything there...but to try to answer some of your questions to my ability...

2) As on painting the whole thing, I would say not. Just blend it in if you dig the alpine white...

3) Binding looks all there, could possibly be glued back or just replace the curved pieces, not the whole headstock.

4) Your veneer may be able to be saved, check this thread out

http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=37571


-Good luck!

[Brothertucker]

Oh look at this one too!

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/custom-shop/75963-1997-lp-studio-headstock-repair-refinish-lots-pics.html

[twangster]

My method.

Make sure there are no splinters etc restricting the fit, if so use a scribe etc to get them out of the way .

Dry fit very carefully, clamp lightly. Drill the brad sized hole as described in your last thread, cut a short length of brad to use as a pin and check that it fits OK & doesn't protrude above the TRC cavity.

Gear : I use an 8th inch thick plexi caul on the whole headstock face, and a strip of vinyl or rubber as a caul on the back. ( over the break ) A caul is simply material to prevent your clamp denting the finish , and on the front the plexi keeps both surfaces of the break aligned & flat plus lets you see what's going on.

Apply titebond original with a clean brush to both surfaces of the break. Fit the pieces together and insert the short length of brad in the hole you drilled in the TRC cavity. Press them together by hand and wipe excess glue being careful not to lose the alignment.

Double check that the join is aligned, place your plexi caul on the front of the headstock, the rubber etc caul over the break, and clamp over the break . The brad pin should stop the join from slipping under pressure , but double check that it hasn't "crept " .

leave 24 hrs.

Once you get to that point post some pics and ask questions about the refinish / binding etc. " Blending " will be an issue as it's a poly finish , not nitro.

This is pretty cool . The veneer was still intact on this repair, which takes care of the alignment/ slipping issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqBsgOwYwF0

[SGjmill]

Cool - Great info guys, thanks a bunch! I cant wait to get this started.

Anyone else done this before and made a thread? Ive looked but havent found too many.

[SGjmill]

Any insight as to what I should do if I cannot get it to line up and fit back together very tightly?

Everytime I dry fit it together theres always just a hair of a space where it seems like it could go together closer.

Would take it a rasp (lightly and minimally) to the broken areas be a way to get the go get closer together?

[pattycakes77]

[ctbillings]

Could it also just be finish that has chipped/worn away that makes it look like a bad fit? Does the transition feel even if you rub your fingers across it?

[SGjmill]

[pattycakes77]

[twangster]

Also sometimes you have to kinda slide them together rather than just place one piece on top of the other.

[RayRay]

Here's another repair....

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Structural/BrokenHeadstocks/BackstrapOverlay/phoverlay.html
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[twangster]

There will be apparent gaps where the poly shattered.

Often there are little chunky pieces at the leading edge of the break stopping a fit.



That's where "sliding" the pieces together helps. IMO it doesn't hurt to pick those away slightly , as long as you're not disturbing the main glueing surface.

If you get this done correctly with titebond there'll be no need for additional splines, woodwork etc.

[SGjmill]

Ive tried (carefully) sliding it together at a few different angles to see which get its the closest.

Thanks for taking the time for the input guys, I really appreciate it.

When I get home tonight I will snap a few pics of what it looks like when I slide it together so you guys can see the gaps and let me know what you think.

Thanks again!

[Vince]

When sliding it together... if it doesn't get you completely there and you have it real close.... a few love taps on the end with a small rubber mallet while holding it at the break doesn't hurt getting it the rest of the way there....
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