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Sealing spalted maple with Z-Poxy?

 
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tnt



Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 2897
Location: Princeton, NJ

PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:44 pm    Post subject: Sealing spalted maple with Z-Poxy? Reply with quote

So I've put two coats of Z-poxy on a spalted maple/walnut body. Seems to be doing a good job as a grain filler, but my question is, since I an sanding between coats with 220 on an random orbital sander - my regular process for grain filling - am I still sealing the spalted maple well enough to harden the wood?

Thanks.
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Lon



Joined: 30 Dec 2003
Posts: 6086
Location: Stephenville, TX

PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've only done 2 basses with spalted tops with Z-poxy, both came out great. I applied the first really wet and let it soak in for 2 hours. Went light on the edges of the flats, mostly filling the field of the flats. After curing overnight, came back with another coat this time with a light scrapping to remove excess, focusing on the low spots. Let cure overnight and then level sanded to 220, then 320.

To answer your question maybe, the Z-poxy only fills and hardens the wood in the open soft areas. Where the heartwood is, the surface is pretty close grain, it only fills the minute openings only as far as the grain will let it flow. The overall hardness is only due to the thickness of the film on top. If that makes sense......
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tnt



Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 2897
Location: Princeton, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lon wrote:
I've only done 2 basses with spalted tops with Z-poxy, both came out great. I applied the first really wet and let it soak in for 2 hours. Went light on the edges of the flats, mostly filling the field of the flats. After curing overnight, came back with another coat this time with a light scrapping to remove excess, focusing on the low spots. Let cure overnight and then level sanded to 220, then 320.

To answer your question maybe, the Z-poxy only fills and hardens the wood in the open soft areas. Where the heartwood is, the surface is pretty close grain, it only fills the minute openings only as far as the grain will let it flow. The overall hardness is only due to the thickness of the film on top. If that makes sense......


Thanks Lon - so when you say you 'level sanded' did you leave a coating of the epoxy over everything? Or did you live sound down to the wood like you would with a regular grain filler?
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bigandtall



Joined: 18 Apr 2011
Posts: 1403
Location: Brooklyn, NY

PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had success with this: http://www.totalboat.com/product/totalboat-epoxy-kits/
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Lon



Joined: 30 Dec 2003
Posts: 6086
Location: Stephenville, TX

PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tnt wrote:
Thanks Lon - so when you say you 'level sanded' did you leave a coating of the epoxy over everything? Or did you live sound down to the wood like you would with a regular grain filler?


I level sanded enough to remove the high areas over the entire surface, wasn't worried about low spots on the first application. I wasn't very aggressive on this level sand, just enough to get surface fairly flat, with even scratch pattern over most of the surface. The second application should take care of the low spots.
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