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Squire P-Bass re-finish, what did I do wrong?

 
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Louie B.



Joined: 11 Jul 2017
Posts: 3
Location: Gilbert, Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 10:03 pm    Post subject: Squire P-Bass re-finish, what did I do wrong? Reply with quote

First off, hello and thanks for accepting me to the board.

I'm in the process of my first attempt at a re-finish following the steps on the "Solid Colors" section of reranch.com. I'm at the point of the White primer and what I thought was going to be the final sanding before I start color.

The primer I'm using is the Zinser BIN primer from Home Depot (one of the products recommended on the site) Under that is Behlen Qualalacq Sanding Sealer which was recommended to me by my local WoodCraft store.

When I started sanding I quickly started seeing what looked like orange peel, except the more I sanded, the worse it got! as I got close to sanding all the way through I started seeing small circles in the finish that looked like popped air bubbles. I couldn't get things cleared up until I was completely through the Primer and into the Sanding sealer.











I'm guessing at this point I need to strip it all back down and start over, just want to get it right next time!

Here's a link to all of my pics of the project so far I'n case you want to see the earlier steps... https://photos.app.goo.gl/gLZqEHg76qxki0352
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The Ballzz



Joined: 14 Jan 2014
Posts: 160
Location: LAS VEGAS, NV

PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you planning to use for your "solid color?" Which BIN did you use? FWIW, though I've used BIN at home for stain blocking on walls etc, I'm not sure that I'd use it as a primer on a guitar or under lacquer. I've also had poor luck with using any type of Zinsser, pre-mixed shellac as a sealer or primer. It never seems to harden enough to sand without clogging the sandpaper immediately. I have had good luck with mixing my own shellac from flake.

On my last guitar project, I simply used the same clear lacquer that I was going to later tint, as the sealer, dark tinted grain filler, sand, seal again, grain fill again, sand, seal and then started my translucent color coats until I got what I wanted and then cleared. This ensured that all coats were perfectly compatible, though a heavier build lacquer intended as a sealer may have been a tad more appropriate.
HTH,
Gene
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Louie B.



Joined: 11 Jul 2017
Posts: 3
Location: Gilbert, Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for my color I've got This arriving tomorrow:
http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/seafoamgreen.html
http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/nitclearcoat.html

here's the products I have used so far:


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The Ballzz



Joined: 14 Jan 2014
Posts: 160
Location: LAS VEGAS, NV

PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



I know you don't need to see this pic, but I was testing Imgur, as Pee-Bucket has gone to crap.
My Apologies,
Gene
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statorvane



Joined: 21 Aug 2003
Posts: 1949
Location: Upstate New York

PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've sealed the wood, you can skip the primer. I'd leave out the primer.

I've only used BINS over a sealed Squire Tele body. It worked out fine.
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked at the pics and see that you stripped the black finish off the guitar.

There's some small bubbles in the pic of the the lower horn-- it looks like the BINS lifted. I have run into this a couple of times on a body that was stripped of a poly finish and it's usually caused by a contaminant of some kind. It gets pulled out of the wood by primer, paint, sealer etc.

I sanded back to wood and used Z-poxy finishing resin and skim coated the entire body twice. That locks what ever is in the wood in and it can't get through the epoxy. One coat, let that harden overnight sand smooth with 220 and 320. Then put on another coat and repeat. You won't need the grain filler. Clean the body after with Alcohol and then Naphtha.
Then put on your primer and paint. Spray light coats and follow the rule of threes in the Reranch 101.

I stopped using BINS the last time this happened. I would use Reranch Primer or Duplicolor sandable primer.
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Louie B.



Joined: 11 Jul 2017
Posts: 3
Location: Gilbert, Arizona

PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the input everyone.

When I stripped the old finish there was a layer of what I thought was fiberglass resin (super hard to remove).

Looks like I'll have to add that resin layer back on again.

At this point I'm thinking about ditching the paint project all together and getting a pre-painted body, I've already dumped so much into this project I could have just bought a nice Warmoth by now. But now my budget will probably only allow a Guitarfetish body but it's probably better than this PIA Squier!
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That layer is a sealer-- It's sometimes referred to as 'Fullerplast'. And it's really tough to remove. A heat gun and a lot of effort can get that stuff off and down to bare wood.
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marksound



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 16668
Location: OKUSA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The sealer is polyester. Wink
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