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Relic Q & A Moved here.
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Strat edgy



Joined: 01 Apr 2012
Posts: 41

PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the response Therory, airbrush to apply it after its yellowed?

I've just reread a lot of this thread and I couldn't find the name of that putty and the technique someone was using for really nice clay dot filler a while back.

Anyone remember, or know, or able to find it ??
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solderjunkie



Joined: 22 Jun 2011
Posts: 2702
Location: Nastyville TN

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Quikwood. You can buy it at most big hardware stores in the wood prep / furniture stain section.
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Brett
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Strat edgy



Joined: 01 Apr 2012
Posts: 41

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Brett, is that the one that is the right color and everything just the way it comes?
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JCBurke59



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
Posts: 960
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strat edgy wrote:
...I couldn't find the name of that putty and the technique someone was using for really nice clay dot filler a while back.

Anyone remember, or know, or able to find it ??

I think what you're after is Durham's Water Putty.

Here's a thread...
http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=42339
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Strat edgy



Joined: 01 Apr 2012
Posts: 41

PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brett,

With the Quickwood, do you add any coloring or is it already the correct color for vintage clay dots?
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Tha LowEnd Theory



Joined: 26 Feb 2008
Posts: 4953
Location: Valley Ranch, Texas

PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strat edgy wrote:
Thanks for the response Therory, airbrush to apply it after its yellowed?


I use a preval.
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"To me, putting a lacquer finish over a poly finish is a lot like gold plating a turd.
It will be shiny, and a pretty color, but underneath it's still a turd." ~Houndog

"You didn't plan to fail, you failed to plan." ~M. DeCluette
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Strat edgy



Joined: 01 Apr 2012
Posts: 41

PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, thanks again

Anyone got tips for how to relic a Black single ply guard for a Strat?
I'm looking for heavy severe nasty relic tips!

What works? What shows up best?
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marksound



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 16670
Location: OKUSA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Experimenting a little because I get so many requests for "relics." This will be an ongoing project to develop a repeatable technique for authentic looking wear.

I used a fine tip Sharpie on this finished neck to mark where I play most. Then a wire wheel on my Dremel to cut through the finish to the wood. Didn't take long.



I think I overdid it on the back (but it feels great). Oh, well. You gotta start someplace. Laughing


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mb73



Joined: 17 Feb 2014
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

I would like to have some advice to get a nice relic looks on a japanese Tele custom 62 sunburst. I'm looking to get that sort of relicing especially for the arm wear:



I have strated with a fine sandpaper but I get something very "clean". It looks a little too fake for me as the contours look perfect.



Should I use another technique (heat-gun, dremel,...) to get something more realistic?

Thank you very much for all the answers,

Mat
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Marshall_Stack



Joined: 03 Feb 2014
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Relicing has jumped the shark.
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vaughn1978



Joined: 20 Feb 2015
Posts: 17
Location: Ringgold, GA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Lostheart"]
cbaker wrote:
Lostheart wrote:
cbaker wrote:

Here's how mine looks a year after the fact.
quote]

Nice...looks nothing but authentic! I should give it a try myself...


Thanks!
Soaked the bridge plate, screws and saddles in salter water for a while. Reassembled, quick spray of wd and then dirt from the shop vac.


Salt water really is the way to go...the acid-fumed-hardware that you see all the time looks mostly odd.
But for some reason I cannot get any effect on my Telecaster neck plate even when try the salt water method for ages.
And the big problem I am having is aging chrome Telecaster knobs...don't know how to get the authentic look...


Use muriatic acid
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Cyclochris



Joined: 06 May 2015
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 5:41 pm    Post subject: did I do the right thing? Reply with quote

All,

I ran across a Fender bass body... It's a 1952-53 body (I believe) that had been altered with contours for forearm and belly, but included a lot of original parts along with some weird stuff. The finish had also been mostly stripped and refin'd with some gross shellac.

I decided to restore it, but giving it a relic job that reflected it's life of bastardization. I have an original 55 P I used as a bit of a reference.

Jack, jack cup/retainer control plate, neck plate, knobs, tone cap, pickup strap buttons and covers are original, although the pickup needs to be rewound.

Pots were weird, one was a 64 split-shaft, and the other was an older linear solid-shaft pot. I found a pair of original 1953's, so threw those in, and put in a really nice repro pickup that I lacquered and relic'd.

I made the pick guard out of phenolic and lacquered it. Still need to work on aging it.

Take a look a look at the pics of before and after. Would love feedback on whether I should stop now, or what you guys think I should still relic.

Was this sacreligious?

Chris


Before:

https://flic.kr/p/rzqdVY
https://flic.kr/p/seRLes
https://flic.kr/p/swfYBJ
https://flic.kr/p/seRGDm
https://flic.kr/p/seRDwQ
https://flic.kr/p/su8CWG
https://flic.kr/p/rzqdXG
https://flic.kr/p/rzqdhJ


After:

https://flic.kr/p/seYu58
https://flic.kr/p/swfLp7
https://flic.kr/p/seQogj
https://flic.kr/p/seYrQP
https://flic.kr/p/swoScx
https://flic.kr/p/seRsPC
https://flic.kr/p/seQjPE
https://flic.kr/p/rzBVYX
https://flic.kr/p/su8CZC
https://flic.kr/p/sd6Ekz
https://flic.kr/p/sd6CdD
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vaughn1978



Joined: 20 Feb 2015
Posts: 17
Location: Ringgold, GA

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey man,
Nice relicing work. Looks convincing right now but in my experience the further you go the less "realistic" it looks. I think your right there at the edge but still on the good side. I just did a Telecaster that was damn near perfect in Daphne blue and I decided to go a few steps further and I ended up going too far. If you like it now id say leave it alone and let it age a little more on its own. One thing that I did that seems to work is after I freeze checked the finish, let it fully cure and use a little but of heat in the high wear spots with a heat gun...the lacquer at the edges of the cracks will start to "cup" after a few treatments and then I rub in a little grim and it leaves a really nice "convincing" aged look. Kind of one last step thats not too drastic but really gives it a nice touch. Anyways, great work looks really good.
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LesPauloholic



Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:31 pm    Post subject: How to make body checking more visible Reply with quote

Hey everyone. It's been a while since I've been here.

I just bought a 1999 Fender 57 Reissue Strat Body in Candy Red. It's got some really nice checking, but it only shows up at the right temperatures, or right angles.

The lacquer has a nice patina from 16 years of play and love.

I'd like to rub something onto the top that will get down into the checking to make it more visible, but not really change the look of the finish.

I'm guessing that if I freeze the body it may help "open" the checking up so I can rub in some grime. What do you recommend I use for for the "grime".

Thanks!
LesPauloholic
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SRVYJM



Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 3
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 8:50 pm    Post subject: Arm Wear Reply with quote

mb73 wrote:
Hi everyone,

I would like to have some advice to get a nice relic looks on a japanese Tele custom 62 sunburst. I'm looking to get that sort of relicing especially for the arm wear:



I have strated with a fine sandpaper but I get something very "clean". It looks a little too fake for me as the contours look perfect.



Should I use another technique (heat-gun, dremel,...) to get something more realistic?

Thank you very much for all the answers,

Mat


I used a product called "burnishing cream" that you can find at any hardware store and a drill with a buffing pad on it. Apply the cream, buff away where you want to see natural-looking arm wear. It fades the finish very, very naturally and in very small amount- so you can literally go through single layers of color or finish to expose the finish underneath only, or all the way down to the raw wood. It's an amazing product- it was in our house for some reason so I tried it and it worked crazy good. Definitely does not leave that "belt sanded" look or the unnatural line/demarcation. It looks like real arm wear. If I can find a pic I'll post it.
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