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Stromberg Carlson PA/guitar amp (Pics)

 
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Bootsypratt



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
Posts: 1236
Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:30 am    Post subject: Stromberg Carlson PA/guitar amp (Pics) Reply with quote

I'm getting it off of craigslists for $65 but I'm not sure of the model. He says it works, sounds great and is about 30watts, so for the money I don't think I can loss. Hopefully the tubes are not too rare and can be replaced at a decent price. I will post pics when I get it. Anyone play with any Stromber Carlson amps?
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Last edited by Bootsypratt on Mon Aug 09, 2010 6:29 am; edited 2 times in total
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rhardman



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 4422
Location: Chicago, not ready for reform, yet

PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't used one...but their HiFi stuff was respected in the 50s.

It will probably need a recap...
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Bootsypratt



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
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Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the amp(APH-1030) today, it's a tube power section on top of some sort of solid state preamp. But I think the tube power amp also has it's own preamp because I can plug strait into it bypassing the preamp section. When plugged in through the preamp it's loud and you can get overdrive when turned up but the tone is really bassy and not very good. So I decided to bypass the preamp, the power amp has it's own on/off switch and a volume control, that's it. The tone was great, really warm and better high end but not nearly as loud. I can turn the volume all they way up and it's loud but nowhere near what a 30 watt amp should be. Also it didn't even break up, serious head room and it's quiet, no hum. So I'm wonder if the power tubes are done or if some of the settings are off(I see a DC balance adjustment screw?) This thing is from the 60s and everything looks original even the tubes. Speaking of the tubes the only thing I can make out are the power tubes, I think there is one preamp tube and the 2 skinny tubes are for the rectifier? Here are some pics










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Last edited by Bootsypratt on Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bootsypratt



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
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Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found some more info (kinda) on the amp. I couldn't find the schematic for this model but there is a page dedicated for 1050 model which looks like the same thing but with beefed up power tubes. http://www.montagar.com/%7Epatj/aph1050.htm

Also I noticed the volume control on the amp says "input" volume, not sure what that means. So I'm wonder if it's possible to make this a usable guitar amp. I would greatly appreciate any feedback and guidance in the right direction.

I need to get the volume up and I'm wondering if I could add a main volume and possibly a tone control in the front. I know the power tubes are easiest to find and even the AO2's (I think these are used as preamp tubes) but the 7199 is the hard one or the expensive one ($50), which I think is for the phase inverter. I'm wondering if I could sub them out for more common tubes?
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Structo



Joined: 21 Nov 2004
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Location: Salem, OR

PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The OA2 tubes are regulator tubes.

Why do you think it has a solid state preamp?

The 7199 is a weird tube in that it has a triode and a pentode in one tube.

My data doesn't show a substitute so you may have to stick with that tube.

Some guys rewire the socket and run different tubes but that will be pretty complicated unless you have a lot of experience.


The 7355 power tube is a 18 watt tube but I don't have much data on it.

But it does show that with 400 volts on the plates that a push/ pull amp can deliver 40 watts.

A guy here says you can use a Russian Sovtek 7591XYZ
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:8M3si20D1TYJ:www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D174322+7355+substitute&cd=5&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

http://www.parts-express.com//pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=072-350
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Bootsypratt



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
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Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a seperate unit below it that has volume and tone nobs, and that's solid state. I know the tube part has it's own tube preamp. Do you have an idea why my volume is low? It sounds good and there is virtually no breakup, could that be the power tubes? Also what do the regulator tubes actually do? I'm not even sure if I have the cab wired right, if you look at the picture where the positive is wired at 8ohms and the ground on the ground. What is the ground jumped to, what is that symbol? Is that right?

Sorry for the hundred questions
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Bootsypratt



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
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Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone tell which caps I should replace to avoid any headaches down the road?

And also which ones need to be discharged so I don't kill my self?

Thanks in advance
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Travst



Joined: 15 Jul 2008
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Location: Birmingham, AL

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd replace all the electrolytic caps. Do you have a cap discharge tool?
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Bootsypratt



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
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Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the roach clips Laughing

It's 2 clips connected by a wire(gauge?copper?)
Do you connect one end to the (+) and the other end to the chasis a couple times, right?

So I should replace all three of those cans?
Is there a site that shows you how to do it?
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Travst



Joined: 15 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Radio Shack sells small bundles of cables with an alligator clip on each end. I clipped one end off about 2" from the clip and soldered in a 5w resistor. This is the cap discharge tool. Clip one end to the positive terminal of the cap and the other end to the chassis as a ground. I do this for every cap and test with my MM before I de-solder the cap. don't stick both bare hands inside the amp When I have to use two hands, I handle the component I'm attaching with an insulated gripper and avoid any contact with internal components.

I'd replace all electrolytics. The cans should be replace with suitable caps. You will probably not be able to find exact replacements. I look around for something suitable that's very close to the original.

Here's a pic of an amp that I just re-capped. You can clearly see the new blue caps and their connections. You will also note the cap can that was replaced. The original was very long and mounted horizontally. That wouldn't work for the replacement, so I pulled the original holder and replaced it with a vertical can clamp. Note that I didn't use all the terminals on the can because I didn't need them. However, the can was the closest thing to the original that I could find:




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TresM (Sir)



Joined: 02 Aug 2009
Posts: 472
Location: South Carolina - Humidity Central

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps your impedances are not matched correctly in the speaker cab you are using?
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TresM (Sir)



Joined: 02 Aug 2009
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Location: South Carolina - Humidity Central

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post pictures of the guts of the SS preamp unit?
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Bootsypratt



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
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Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not going to use the SS preamp, do you want it?
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TresM (Sir)



Joined: 02 Aug 2009
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Location: South Carolina - Humidity Central

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uhhh free gear???


Hell yeah lol Very Happy


maybe that can work with my amp until I acquire enough cash to build a decent tube preamp for it.
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