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110 or 210 Vibro Champ?

 
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What the heck should I do?
Flexibility is a good thing, go for a 110!
20%
 20%  [ 3 ]
Stick with a 210 configuration!
13%
 13%  [ 2 ]
Hell, build a head for the ultimate in flexibility.
60%
 60%  [ 9 ]
I'm tired of your polls... shut the hell up.
6%
 6%  [ 1 ]
Total Votes : 15

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Travst



Joined: 15 Jul 2008
Posts: 9535
Location: Birmingham, AL

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 12:17 pm    Post subject: 110 or 210 Vibro Champ? Reply with quote

My dovetail joint template arrived, so I'm ready to start my Ceriatone Vibro Champ amp cabinet. I had planned on mounting both 10" speakers in a combo cab (one Copperhead, one Delta Demon). Now I'm rethinking the combo approach. I have several different speaker types besides these, and I'm considering going for a more modular approach so I can mix and match speakers easily. I'm curious as to what the group thinks. What setup do you all prefer?

I added the "shut the hell up" and voted for it myself. Wink
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ghostwolf



Joined: 10 Oct 2008
Posts: 360
Location: ohio, texas

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

myself, i really like a 2X10 setup. on the other hand, i'm coming to appreciate the flexibility of the modular approach. or, go with the 2x10 in the combo, with external speaker outs for even greater number of options, if that's do-able. Confused
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RolandR



Joined: 03 Sep 2003
Posts: 8908
Location: Coastal Calif.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:22 pm    Post subject: Dovetail template Reply with quote

Travst wrote:
My dovetail joint template arrived, ...
Did you get the half bind jig or the through dovetail template?

If you got the through dovetail template with both tails and pins here's a tip. Mark the mid-point of the dovetail template.

Now with your piece of wood planks either pin or tail, mark the center point of these planks. Lined them up with the template when routing either the tails or pins.

If you got the templates at MLCS, the instruction does not mentioned the above. Do the above will take some of the guess work off.

Combo looks cool put for practical purpose a separate head and speaker enclosure is prefered (for me) because I have two Allen combos and on a hardward wood floor, the tubes rattle causing that typical sporadiac sound of loose tubes. Though works fine on carpeted floors.


Last edited by RolandR on Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Travst



Joined: 15 Jul 2008
Posts: 9535
Location: Birmingham, AL

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the through dovetail templates. Thanks for the tip.
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John
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Travst



Joined: 15 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just read through the instructions for the jig... a picture or two would have been nice.
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Structo



Joined: 21 Nov 2004
Posts: 26415
Location: Salem, OR

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, I have to tell you that I am pretty much done with combos.

They are heavy, they are torture chambers for tubes.

I like the advantage of having a amp head then I can plug it into any cab I happen to have on hand.

But if you have to have a combo I would go for the 2x10 or for more brute tone a 2x12. Very Happy
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rhardman



Joined: 11 Sep 2008
Posts: 4422
Location: Chicago, not ready for reform, yet

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have always of the school of separate heads and cabs...it allows you a ton more flexibility. You can tailor the size of the amp to the room...not to mention the weight factor. I can't see myself dragging my Pro-Reverb
around any more...too heavy, and too valuable.

And Tom is absolutely about combos being a torture chamber for tubes! I have seen a lot of tubes become microphonic before their time in combos.
and I don't know of anyone who can afford to retube every 6 months (like I used to) whether it need it or not. (but at least I have a good stash of spares now)

Rawl
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Vince



Joined: 10 May 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only do heads and bottoms now... Combo's are a PIA! Mad
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dougk



Joined: 11 Dec 2007
Posts: 9440
Location: About to lose his head in Sacramento

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1x10 open back combo with a 1x10 closed back extension cab.

Nice thing is a 1x10 combo is a fairly nice portable rig.
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RolandR



Joined: 03 Sep 2003
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Location: Coastal Calif.

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Travst wrote:
I just read through the instructions for the jig... a picture or two would have been nice.
Travst, just got on-line, I'll take a pictures of my backing board for the dovetail jig and post them as soon as possible.

The MLCS instruction are adquate could have been clearer. They kind of hand wave how to use it.
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RolandR



Joined: 03 Sep 2003
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Location: Coastal Calif.

PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's my version of the backing board. Note that its in the "pin" routing mode. Turn it upside down is in the "dovetail" routing mode.


Side view and the possible clamps used

Here's my home-made clamp system. Due away with the other clamps.

Traditional clamps
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Travst



Joined: 15 Jul 2008
Posts: 9535
Location: Birmingham, AL

PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RolandR wrote:
Travst wrote:
I just read through the instructions for the jig... a picture or two would have been nice.
Travst, just got on-line, I'll take a pictures of my backing board for the dovetail jig and post them as soon as possible.

The MLCS instruction are adquate could have been clearer. They kind of hand wave how to use it.


rofl... thanks for the pics. I meant pics in the INSTRUCTIONS from the manufacturer! I wasn't pointing fingers at you... lol.

I made a mounting block according to the specs and mounted the jig on top. My assumption was that you centered one board on one side for the pins and another on the other for the tails and cut them using a dovetail bit for the tails and a straight bit for the pins.
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RolandR



Joined: 03 Sep 2003
Posts: 8908
Location: Coastal Calif.

PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Travst wrote:
...
rofl... thanks for the pics. I meant pics in the INSTRUCTIONS from the manufacturer! I wasn't pointing fingers at you... lol.
Oh, Laughing When I go to a bank teller or post office teller, and I'm asking for a money order, I alway write down the amount on a piece of paper and hand it to them. Majority of us are visual people. So I could understand what you mean, instructions could alway use pictures for understanding. (unrelated) More reason I'll end up getting a DVD on "How to Fret a Guitar".

Travst wrote:
... My assumption was that you centered one board on one side for the pins and another on the other for the tails and cut them using a dovetail bit for the tails and a straight bit for the pins.
That did cross my mind building a jig that cuts both tails and pins, planks back-to-back.

I actually have two routers when cutting dovetails, one with the dovetail bit and the other with the 3/8" dia. straight bit each with the template guide of course.

Actually I first rout the dovetail with the 3/8" dia. straight bit before routing it out with the dovetail. Kind of like the analogy of using forstner drill bit to cut the cavities before using your pattern bearing riding bit.

If you encountered some useful tips, pass them along. These through dovetail jigs are a bit new to me. I used to use a half-bind dovetail jig.
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